DIY Open-Front Cardigan Tutorial: Short, Hip-Length & Long (No Buttons)

Step-by-step instructions for sewing short, hip-length, and long open-front cardigans with clean lines, comfortable knit fabrics, and a timeless layering style.

An open-front cardigan is one of the most useful garments you can sew. It layers over tanks, tees, blouses, and dresses, and because there are no buttons, the fit is forgiving, and the construction is simple. In this tutorial, you’ll learn one straightforward method you can use to make a short cardigan, a hip-length everyday cardigan, or a long cardigan/duster — all using the same steps.

Best Fabrics for This Project

Choose a knit that drapes and feels comfortable:

Sweater knit (stable and cozy)

French terry (casual, easy to sew)

Ponte knit (more structured, polished)

Rayon jersey (soft drape, lightweight)

Lightweight fleece (warm, casual)

Tip: If your knit is very stretchy or “bouncy,” plan to stabilize shoulder seams so the cardigan doesn’t grow while you wear it.

What You’ll Need

Knit fabric (yardage guide below)

Matching thread

Stretch needle (ballpoint or jersey needle)

Sewing machine that can do a zigzag or stretch stitch (or serger)

Scissors or rotary cutter + mat

Pins or clips

Measuring tape

Optional: beige piping (for a subtle contrast detail)

Optional: fusible knit stay tape (for shoulder seams)

Yardage Guide (Approximate)

These amounts assume 58–60" wide knit fabric.

Short (cropped): 1 to 1.5 yards

Hip-length: 1.5 to 2 yards

Long (duster): 2.5 to 3 yards

If you’re adding longer sleeves, a wider band, or making a plus-size, add a little extra.

Quick Fit Notes (Before You Cut)

This style is meant to be relaxed, not tight.

The front is intentionally open — no overlap needed unless you want a dramatic wrap look.

Length is the main difference between the three versions.

Step-by-Step DIY Cardigan Instructions

Step 1: Take a Few Key Measurements

Measure over the clothing you’ll wear under the cardigan.

Bust (around the fullest part)

Hip (around the fullest part)

Back neck to desired hem (choose short/hip/long)

Sleeve length (shoulder point to wrist)

Upper arm (around bicep)

Ease: Add 2–4 inches of ease to bust/hip for a relaxed cardigan.

Step 2: Create a Simple “No-Pattern” Cutting Plan

You’ll cut: Back (1 on fold), Fronts (2), Sleeves (2), Optional front band (2 long strips)

A) Back Piece (Cut 1 on fold)

Width: (Bust measurement + ease) ÷ 2

Length: your chosen length (short/hip/long)

Cut on the fold for a clean center back.

B) Front Pieces (Cut 2)

Use the back piece width as your guide.

Width of each front: about ½ of back width

Length: same as back

Neckline: scoop or shallow V (keep it simple)

Easy method: Lay your back piece down, trace it, then cut the front neckline lower and create a straight front edge.

Step 3: Choose Your Length (Short, Hip, or Long)

Short (Cropped)

Hem falls around upper waist.

Hip-Length

Hem lands at the hip bone or slightly below.

Long (Duster)

Hem lands around the mid-thigh to the knee area.

Tip: For maximum flattering lines, make the front edges hang straight rather than curve inward.

Step 4: Cut the Sleeves (2)

Cardigans can use set-in sleeves or easy drop-shoulder sleeves.

Easiest Sleeve (Drop-Shoulder)

Sleeve width: (Upper arm + 2") for comfort

Sleeve length: desired sleeve length

Shape: a gentle curve at the top edge (or keep it slightly squared for super-easy sewing)

If you’re unsure, cut sleeves slightly wider — you can always slim them later.

Step 5: Sew Shoulder Seams

Place front and back pieces right sides together.

Sew shoulder seams using:

a narrow zigzag, stretch stitch, or serger

Press seams gently (don’t stretch).

Optional: Add knit stay tape to shoulder seams before stitching to prevent stretching.

Step 6: Attach Sleeves

With cardigan body still inside-out, match the sleeve center to the shoulder seam.

Pin/clip sleeve into the armhole.

Sew sleeve to armhole.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Step 7: Sew Side Seams + Underarm Seam

Fold cardigan with right sides together.

Sew from sleeve cuff down to hem in one continuous seam.

Repeat on the other side.

Step 8: Decide Your Front Finish

You have two clean options:

Option A: Simple Folded Edge (Fastest)

Fold the front edges inward ½"–¾"

Stitch with a stretch stitch or twin needle

Option B: Add a Front Band (Most Professional)

This gives the cardigan structure and is perfect for adding beige piping in the seam while keeping the band itself black.

How to Add a Black Front Band With Beige Piping in the Seam

Step 9: Cut the Band Pieces

Cut two long strips from black fabric:

Width: 3"–4" (for a finished band around 1.25"–1.75")

Length: measure from hem up the front edge, around the neckline, and down the other front edge.

Cut slightly longer; you can trim.

Step 10: Attach Piping to the Band (Optional but Beautiful)

Place piping along one long edge of the band strip.

Baste it in place close to the piping seam using a zipper foot.

Repeat for the second band strip if needed.

Step 11: Sew the Band to the Cardigan

With cardigan right side up, place the band right sides together along the front edge and neckline.

Stitch, catching the piping seam (zipper foot helps).

Press seam toward band.

Fold the band to the inside, enclosing the seam.

Topstitch on the inside edge (or stitch-in-the-ditch from the front for a clean look).

Now your band is black, and the piping shows as a thin beige line in the seam — exactly the look you described.

Step 12: Hem the Sleeves and Bottom

No cuffs

No hem band

Sew a clean hem:

Sleeve Hem

Fold up ¾"–1"

Stitch with stretch stitch or twin needle

Bottom Hem

Fold up 1"

Stitch (stretch stitch/twin needle)

Tip: If your knit curls, use hem tape or starch lightly before sewing.

Step 13: Final Press + Fit Check

Press seams gently

Try it on

If you want a slimmer look, take in the side seams slightly

If you want more drape, leave it relaxed

Styling Notes

A black cardigan with beige piping layered over a dark brown top is a rich neutral combination that pairs beautifully with:

Denim

Cream pants

Chocolate brown pants

Camel/tan skirts

Olive or moss green accessories

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